Nowhere on earth is more history packed into a single square mile.  This walled city is shared uneasily by Jews, Muslims, Christians — and especially tourists, each on their own pilgrimage.  Our pilgrimage led us to the Western Wall where we each scribbled a prayer.  Once you’ve walked through the streets of Jerusalem and experienced the peculiar energy and tension of so many fighting for their claim to such a tiny piece of earth, the prayer you write down probably isn’t going to be just about you.